The fertile plains of Punjab teem with many romances of the past. In the land of the five rivers, stories and fables of the bygone times are all pervasive in the region’s folklore. Though Sufi shrines are a constant feature in the whole of the Sub-Continent, Punjab has the distinction of being home to many eminent ones, from that of Madhu Lal Hussain to Farid Ganjshakar. Amongst this pantheon of Sufis who’ve cemented their position in the annals of history via their literary and spiritual works, Waris Shah stands out. His tragic romance of ‘Heer Ranjha’ is probably the best known work from this region. And it was towards his shrine, and I found myself driving towards his shrine on a sunny autumn morning from Lahore.
Waris Shah, a Punjabi Sufi poet of the Chishti order, was born in Jandiala Sher Khan (presently in District Sheikhupura) in the 18th century, and was eventually buried there with his father and brother. Though it is difficult to ascertain the precise year of his birth, historians put it around 1720 - 1730. However, it was in the village of Malka Hans near Pakpattan, that Shah wrote his magnum opus: ‘Heer’.
Waris Shah spent numerous years of his life residing adjacent to a mosque in the area, and the mosque has now been renamed Masjid Waris Shah in his honor. Waris Shah lived during a time when India was going through rapid change: Mughal power was faltering; religious reformation movements were gaining momentum. European powers were knocking on South Asian shores, and warring factions were constantly rebelling against each other. These socio-political circumstances strongly shaped his work, and ‘Heer’ would imbibe that tumultuous history of Punjab for eons to come.
A story famous for connecting Divine Love to Worldly Love, it’s interesting to note that the story of Heer Ranjha did not originate with Waris Shah. The fable of star-crossed lovers had been written about before, by Punjabi poets Damodar Das, Ahmad Gujjar and others. But it is Waris Shah’s version that is generally considered the best and most popular. One could even go far as to call it an authority on understanding the political, cultural and social dynamics of 18th Century Punjab. It’s unfortunate that various verses were added to Waris Shah’s original poem by later writers. It has now become quite difficult to untangle these edited verses from those written by Waris Shah, though academic inquiry has done the task with some degree of validity.
The tomb of Waris Shah lies about seven kilometers from the Lahore-Islamabad motorway, at the Hiran Minar Exchange. The formal construction of the tomb was taken up by the Government of Punjab in 1975, as the grave was in a dilapidated condition. The construction was completed in 1978, and hence the structure is fairly modern in its appeal. The architecture of the tomb, as well as the lay-out of the adjoining grounds, borrows heavily from Mughal influences, resulting in a sprawling space.
Octagonal in shape with arched corridors, the structure is largely made of red bricks. The exterior of the tomb has also been embellished with frescoes from Multan. There is a library in the compound, and numerous shops outside the main entrance selling food stuffs, collectibles, posters of Waris Shah and books on Sufism and Sufi poetry. Most notable amongst these are the various prints of Waris Shah’s ‘Heer’, some illustrated with extremely fascinating and aesthetically unique paintings of the lovers.
Waris Shah’s tomb is nestled amidst swathes of green fields, and exists against a serene backdrop of a laid-back life in the village. It’s interesting to see that the tomb lacks the usual and expected frenzy that is otherwise typical of Sufi shrines. But, looking at the place as a whole, it seems fitting for the last abode of a man who wrote about the purest expression of love. Dotted with palm and pine trees, the place is calm and silent, save for the sounds of the dhol (drums) and the ensuing dhamaal, during certain hours of the day.
The air, though, is heavy with supplications of the visitors, many of them lovers. Their prayers manifest in the threads around the pillars and the locks that people put in order for their wishes of true love to be fulfilled. There are always some qawaals near the tomb, reciting verses from ‘Heer’. The melody and the words have the power to transport you to a time that speaks of purity and great social change, yet they never disturb Waris Shah’s eternal reunion with his Beloved.
Waris Shah’s tomb is not just important for those interested in Sufism in Pakistan. It celebrates the life and work of a literary and historical icon that has shaped our understanding of Punjabi culture and literature. Whether one seeks romantic or spiritual love, this shrine and Waris Shah’s words, are bound to spellbind and touch your heart.
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